Thinking of revamping the interiors of your home? The Pantone color of the year is the Classic Blue, you’re welcome. Now, painting the interiors is just as important as the regular spruce of the exteriors of a home, if not more. Maybe you are looking to increase property value, or maybe this is just a personal project, whatever it might be- we’ve got you covered with this guide. After this quick read, you will be set for a trip down to the paint store to pick up a bucket of the prettiest classic blue you set your eyes on.
Step 1: Planning:
- Create your vision: Take some time to tour your house and write down your thoughts on color, finishes and textures that you would like. Browse the internet to find out what trends are in and which ones you’d like to incorporate in your house.
- Carefully consider the gloss level. The shiny gloss paints are easy to clean but will make any wall blemish stand out. The flat paints will help disguise wall blemishes but can be difficult to clean. Generally, you will want glossier paints where there’s lots of steam or cooking (baths and kitchens) and in high-traffic areas. Flatter paints are preferred for large walls and ceilings.
- If you feel like professional help is something you’ll need, then contact someone whose works are something you’ve always had your eye on.
- Let’s get down to math: Estimate the area you’ll need to cover. Measure the height and width of each wall. In the U.S., coverage estimates are given in square feet, everywhere else on the planet uses the metric system. To find the area of a given wall, simply multiply the height by the width.
- Determine the coverage area for each color and estimate the number of gallons you’ll need for each. For odd walls with angled ceilings, make your best guess. If you’re not comfortable doing this, measure the wall at its highest height and multiply that by its width. Now subtract the lowest height from the highest height, multiply that number by the width, cut that answer in half, and finally subtract that new number from the original height by width. That should give you the wall area.
- Budgeting: Costs will vary greatly, depending on price and quality. Choosing mid to upper-grade paint, expect to pay in the area of $350.00 in paint alone for a 2000 sq. ft. house. Add another $100 to $200 in brushes, rollers, pans, tape, and other materials. You can generally go cheap on primer, expensive on topcoats.
- Keep your task force in mind: Will you be hiring a work force to help you with your task. Keep in mind, you’d have to add up those costs along with your budgeting plans.
- Scheduling is prime: Get a grip on the time it will take to bring the project to fruition. Plan for time to move furniture, wall prep, cut in, the painting itself, eating and breaks, and don’t forget cleanup and bringing furniture back in.
Step 2: Prepping:
- Moving the furniture: Before you begin applying paint to your walls, take the time to move all the furniture and other items in the room you’ll be painting. This includes any wall hangings, such as picture frames, mirrors, etc. It may be easiest to gather the furniture in the middle of the room, away from the walls, rather than moving it all out. After that, simply cover your furniture completely with plastic, wrapping it tightly with tape to keep the paint from dripping on it.
- Prep the house: Wash the walls, remove wallpaper, patch, spackle, seal stains, dry and sand before you attempt to paint. Now is also the time to apply painters’ tape for trimming, lay drop cloths, etc. Remove all outlet and light switch face plates, collecting screws in a zip-top bag.
- Search for and fix flaws: Take the time to search for flaws in your walls, such as nail holes, dents and cracks. Depending on the size of the room, this step might take longer than you expect.
- Tools are a life saver: To get started, here are some of the most basic supplies you’ll need for prepping:
- Patch blades (6, 8 or 12 inches)
- Patch or caulk
- Sandpaper or an electric sander
- Protective eyewear
After you’ve fixed any holes or flaws in your ceiling, walls and trim, these are the items you’ll need to start painting:
- Can opener
- Paint cans
- Roller covers
- Brushes (in a range of sizes)
- Rags or old towels
- Extension pole
- Painter’s tape
- Paint spout
- Mineral spirits or paint thinner
- Hand cleaner
- Hand soap
Step 3: Priming
- Dark colors, stains, and previously unpainted surfaces (drywall, spackle, etc.) will need a primer coat, usually white. Most paint stores & home improvement centers will now tint primer to match fairly close to the color of the finished coat, that way two coats of primer need not be applied.
- Priming is compulsory if you’re painting over a darker color, or on a new drywall, but it’s a good idea to include this step before any paint job. A primer is necessary because it blocks any stains from bleeding through. It is also important because it prevents any blisters and paint-peeling by improving paint adhesion.
- Lastly, primer is a good idea as it allows complete single-coat coverage of the walls. If you want a better appearance, you can tint your primer with the final color you intend on using on the walls. Most paints today come with inbuilt primers, but an old school primer is still a better option. Before you start painting, remember to use painter’s tape to cover your door frames, windowsills, and any switches on the wall.
Step 4: The paint job
- Using a two-inch angled brush, start by painting your corners and around the trim. You should paint a border of at least 2 or 3 inches (5.1 or 7.6 cm) from the corners, doors, and moldings. Since a paint roller will not be able to get the paint into the edges, the angled brush ensures that the paint is spread evenly on your walls. Use a roller to paint the rest of the wall. A good method to use is the ‘W method’.
- Use a roller to paint the rest of the wall. A good method to use is the ‘W method’. You start by painting a large 3 foot (0.91 m) square W on the wall. Then, without lifting the roller, you fill in the W. You can paint a wall section-by-section and do the walls one at a time for best results. It’s generally a good idea to use an extension pole for your roller instead of standing on a ladder. Make sure that neither the extension pole nor the roller has plastic handles, as plastic handles are flexible, and this makes it difficult to control the painting.
- While the paint is still wet, remove any painter’s tape from the wall and trim. Removing it while it’s dry can pull the paint off the wall and make your effort useless.
Step 5: The cleanup
- Use your brush to scrape paint from the pan back into the original paint can. Firmly press the lid back onto the can.
- Run the brush under warm water and use a comb or nylon cleaning brush to help remove the paint from the bristles.
- Rub some hand cleaner into the bristles and rinse again. For roller covers, use a 5-in-1 tool to remove the paint under running water.
- Allow the roller to dry in an upright position, then store in a paper bag or cardboard box.
- Cleaning oil-based paints can be a challenge. Sometimes it’s best to let your tools dry and throw them away. However, if you plan on saving your tools, you’ll need mineral spirits, paint thinner or lacquer thinner, a cleaning comb or brush and two metal containers or glass jars with lids. One container will be for clean solvent and the other for dirty solvent.
- Dip the brush into the solvent and work out the excess paint/stain. As the cleaning solution gets dirty, change it out for fresh solvent. You’ll need to do this several times. When all of the excess paint or stain is out of the brush, clean it one more time.